January 14th - 17th, 2014
Neev crossed a big milestone – our first overnight trip.
What better gang of kids to do it with? And what better place?
Hampi - erstwhile
Kishkinda – the mythological birthplace of Hanuman, a setting for much of the
epic Ramayana….and as we know for certain, the base of one of the greatest
Indian civilisations of the past– the Vijaynagar empire.
As a model of a past civilisation – for the children and
teachers – no greater experience could have happened. And it is unfortunate
that everything we saw in Hampi has not been made accessible as texts on other
major civilisations elsewhere – Roman, Aztec, Greek, Sumerians, and even the
Vikings and many others, some of which the Hampi returnees will now choose to
compare & contrast with.
We have all been taught history as a bunch of dates &
timelines and names of people. But the few of us today in whom a love of
history survives, remember history as narratives of personalities and what they
did, what they thought, what they aspired for, what they believed in. This is
what Intach brought alive for us. The splendor that existed once, as recorded
in narratives of travellers, the societal beliefs and knowledge as recorded in
the carvings and monuments, the technology that is visible through town
planning and systems – canals, aqueducts, layouts – and the geographical
location – next to the Tungabhadra river, and bustling economy – with trade,
travellers, gold, iron, etc. – creating wealth which led to a civilisation of
significance in the first place.
We saw much:
January 14th
Starting with a sunset at the (relatively) modern
Tungabhadra damn – built at the end of the British empire, and completed at the
start of independent India. For the kids, it was a example of a multi-use dam –
follow on from a unit last year on water, where they researched different uses
and hence types of damns – which is used for a reservoir, irrigation (across
two states – from 3 canals each of the dam), and generation of electricity.
January 15th
The first day in Hampi revolved around the monumental and
oft visited religious sites – Shreekrishna temple (and kalyani – where we saw
the grids marked by archaeologists for recent excavations, and also signs of how
the massive blocks of stone were cut for the constructions around half a
millennium back, besides getting a first visual on the natural advantage Hampi
offers for security with the high boulders all around topped by watchtowers), Veerupakhsa
temple – one of the only living temples in Hampi replete with its own resident
elephant, and the Vithala temple complex with its musical pillars. Enroute – a
monolithic Ganesha, many surrounding structures and stories. The day ended with
some rock climbing and a walk along the river at the Vitthala temple – within
sight of the Anjaneya temple which is supposed to be the place Hanuman was
born, and the Purandaradas mandapam on the banks of the river, in memory of the
great poet / narrator.
The temples surviving are small today. Like most things the
protection of these sites falls between the state and center - ASI being in charge – but there is evidence
of much larger monuments, bridges, stepwells, etc. that once existed around the
temples.
Teachers and kids alike loved the Vithala temple complex and
the ruins around it which we explored.
The day was spent largely at the royal enclosure,
understanding occupations, form of government, traditions, gender equality and
other beliefs, economy, etc. as evidenced in the structures, carvings and
systems that remain, added to by narratives of records and travellers stories by
Intach folks.
Listening to the narratives of the splendor, by European
travellers, that had been given access to all parts of palaces, noblemen's houses, government buildings, and the rest of the city – we could start to
imagine the wealth that existed, where now only ruins and basements exist –
from where 500 elephant loads of treasure were carried away by the kings
brother when the Vijayanagar empire was attacked by the Adilshahi empire in the
decisive battle of Talikota (1565), which marked the end of the Vijaynagar
empire – less than 200 years after it began.
Looking at the aqueducts that carry water from many
kilometers away – from the kumara tank – to the step well in the royal
enclosure, which itself was carried 100’s of kilometers from dharwad to be
installed on site in the royal enclosure, as evidenced by the old writing on
each stone for directionality during re-installation – and the other systems for
handling water, we could start to understand the technology that existed.
The perfection of the carvings on the walls recorded the
aspirations of a society to integrate in a changing world at the peak of the
European renaissance – Persian and Arabic animal traders and trainers; European
traders, travellers and men of different trades brought a world knowledge - war craft, weaponry making, book keeping,
recording narratives and other occupation – while in parallel traditions of
hunting, arts and crafts, schools for Brahmins, and other communities existed –
all captured in the carvings tell the story of the times to many generations
after.
The hazara-rama temple in the royal enclosure – literally a
1000 Ram’s – was an interesting structure – where the epic Ramayana was
depicted in 3 tiers of carvings around the temple forcing people into three
circumambulations at least.
The varied materials used over time included granite, brick, lime plaster, schist, and manner other forms of stone that were brought in from other parts of the country. Techniques of fresco and stucco were strengthened with the renaissance travellers who passed through Hampi – for trading spices, animals, silks, precious elements and knowledge. All of this was brought alive at the royal enclosure.
The queen's bath. Indo-Islamic architecture was evident here. Again with aqueducts feeding the water in the bath tank and the moat outside. Kids wondered why a queen would need such a big bath – and were amused by the stories of the number of helpers in attendance – inside the bath!
The last monument we visited – was the elephant stable – the name belies its significance, since the complex included a small palace, the foundations of a larger monument – likely the council room, protective fort like walls and an interesting structure with a courtyard inside reminiscent of European palaces.
One of the last questions that came up at the elephant stable - how was Hampi discovered? The answer – the British in the 1800’s reclaimed the monuments bit by bit from plants, bandits, trash, and burned cinders (which led to the belief that in 1565 the monuments, particularly the royal enclosure were burned to the ground) – giving us a world heritage site.
The day ended with a sunset hike – up Matanga hill - where the story goes: Sugreev escaped from Bali, when the latter returned to reclaim the kingdom accusing his brother of usurping the kingdom – Sugreev then escaped to the only place where Bali was not permitted to enter - from the top of which, today, all of Hampi is visible.
A poem made by words expressing our kids feelings at that
last sunset:
Hampi
Tremendous
Historical, Royal
Assorted, Adventurous
Temples
Dazzling, Gorgeous,
Stupefying
Hampi
Tremendous, Mysterious
Hampi
Adults weren’t asked for their words, but mine would’ve
been - Dramatic. Hampi!
I am reminded of Ozymandias by PB Shelley - I met a traveller from an
antique land; Who said: "Two vast and trunkless legs of stone Stand in the
desert. Near them on the sand, Half sunk, a shattered visage lies,….`My name is
Ozymandias, King of Kings: Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!'
History
will be repeated – learn from the past to create a better future.